I would like to work with Greg and make a formal how to for his site. I took some camera phone pics but I left my good camera at home. The short of it is that Kawi sets the front diff cable loose. I don't know if this is for safety, longevity or any other legitimate reason.
My process is simple. Remove the four screws that hold the top panel over the handlebars. Break the lamb nut loose on the adjuster you need two 12mm wrenches. I left the jam nut as close as possible so I could see how far I was adjusting it. I jack up ONE front wheel with a jack and leave the other on the ground. Starting out I can freely turn the one wheel. As I pull the lever it applies the diff clutches but I can still over come them by hand. So I turn the adjuster to spread it I forget CW or CCW I think CCW. Anyway, with about a 1/4" of adjustment I can spin the wheel freely and as I apply the diff lever I get resistance that I cannot overcome. So it turns both wheels. I adjusted it back and fourth, spun the wheel, and pulled the lever until I was happy with the progression of the diff control. When I was done I could still spin the one wheel freely so I was confident the cable was not too tight. Is that simple enough?

in the service manual it tells how to adjust, talks about adjusting until you get a certain amount of resistance and then measure the distance from the handlebar, thats how i set mine up, i posted it over on HL, will look for it

here is from the manual:

o Pull the variable differential control lever towards teh handlebar grip with a spring scale until it reads 7 lb of force.

o The differential control lever in the front final gear case must be locked, then the clearance between the control lever and grip should be about .8 inches.

o If the clearance is not the specified length, adjust the cable.

I wonder if that is how KAwasaki adjusted it from the factory? It should be otherwise why make a book on it? It was crapola straight from Kawi. Manual schmanual I like my way better

yeah, mine was same way, others too, almost like it stretches...

i agree, your method of seeing when it locks is probably better, combined with a measurement would be good, its like they are saying the measurement always works, which i wouldn't guarantee it does....but verifying that it locks would be better

Your differential control system cable adjustment procedure sounds eminently workable to me, TX Camo! You can "customize" the adjustment for your personal preference. The factory service manual instructions, I imagine, enable nominal operation, without threatening premature differential clutch wear.

My only caution would be, if adjusted too "tight," said clutch wear and hard steering may result.

I don't carry a particular brief for Kawasaki, or for the dedicated technicians manufacturing and assembling ATVs in their factory, but . . . as elkbow mentions, the "differential control system" is actuated by a cable; and, in-service, cables tend to stretch; thus, some adjustment to compensate for this material characteristic doesn't seem unreasonable, from a design standpoint, to me.

Further, the locking mechanism actuation consists of "pressing" more-or-less conventional limited-slip differential wet clutch disks together, increasing friction between the disks to the point of lockup. Stands to reason this abrasion between clutch disks results in some wear, and some "wearing in," as the clutch is used, requiring adjustment over the vehicle's service life, seems inevitable, regardless of initial adjustment, to me.

Manual clutches, for example, on sport quads and on motorcycles have identical cable adjusting mechanisms, for the same reasons (i.e., cable stretch and clutch disk face wear).

One can call the Kawasaki differential control system, "crapola," but the design don't bother me none--I appreciate the ability to lock the front end instantly, at any speed, in any direction, and in any range, and to unlock it immeditaely, under rider control at all times. Adjusting the cable, to me, is a small price to pay for these characteristics. YMMV!

A "Pen-Lock" might not be a bad idea, for those rare times when the "differential control lever" actuation may be inconvenient or impossible, I'd think . . .

All the above, my opinion only; alternative front final drive locking systems exist, some requiring a full stop and/or other speed limitations for engagement; and, who can ignore the venerated Polaris "all-wheel drive," "on-demand" system?

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One final, and perhaps irrelevant, comment: Since the Kawasaki differential control system depends upon FRICTION between CLUTCH DISKS for lockup; the system, even when properly adjusted, CAN BE OVERCOME, under extremely severe, stressful conditions. So can the Visco-Lok system, for the same reason (friction between clutch disks provides lockup). Only a differential system with a positive, mechanical, front differential locking system can keep the front wheels locked, defeating differential action (associated wheels rotating at different velocities) until something breaks . . .

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This message has been edited. Last edited by: Tree Farmer,

quote:

One can call the Kawasaki differential control system, "crapola," but the design don't bother me none--I appreciate the ability to lock the front end instantly, at any speed, in any direction, and in any range, and to unlock it immeditaely, under rider control at all times. Adjusting the cable, to me, is a small price to pay for these characteristics. YMMV!

I agree completely. That's where it shines.
Mine was slightly loose when it was new. Had to adjust it a couple of turns.

So would this be mabye why my brothers 06 650 is jumping OUT OF 4X4?? He'll lock it in and ride for a short distance and look down and it will be in 2WD... either on the road or in trail...
????????????????????????????????
Any thoughts or suggestions???
Thanks in advance

quote:

Originally posted by TorkMonster:
So would this be mabye why my brothers 06 650 is jumping OUT OF 4X4??

I'd think your brother's problem rests in the ACTUATOR circuitry or mechanism.

The "Differential Control" mechanism is strictly manual, and applies only to locking the front axles, not 4X4 engagement.

I will lookinto it TreeFarmer.. Thanks....
You think just put a NEW one on there??? Also the SWITCH on the handlbars the rubber coating on it is ripped and think mabye WATER got down in there and shorting this out???? Didn't know it was ripped till I went out and looked at it again...
His buddy has had one and a year older PRARIE and he said both of his has done it.... I hadn't heard that of the kawi's.... Least not the BRUTES...

Oh and it was bought NEW on 07 and MIGHT have 150-200 miles on it... Mainly a hunting vehicle with some moderate trails and some creek in it....

Humm--Gee Tork, that sounds strange. My 02 prairie will sometimes lose power to the speed-o, and all you will see is a zero, but doesn't have anything to do w/4wd function. Just have to turn the key off and on to restore function. If the toggle is in the 4wd position, seems like even if there were a power problem it should stay in 4wd. If I read your post correctly the machine is a low-miler. On my high mile Prairie, I had to replace the little block in the front diff that does the shifting of the 4wd coller. The machine would pop in and out of 4wd in a pull, but the light would stay in 4wd.

quote:

Originally posted by XS:
Humm--Gee Tork, that sounds strange. My 02 prairie will sometimes lose power to the speed-o, and all you will see is a zero, but doesn't have anything to do w/4wd function. Just have to turn the key off and on to restore function. If the toggle is in the 4wd position, seems like even if there were a power problem it should stay in 4wd. If I read your post correctly the machine is a low-miler. On my high mile Prairie, I had to replace the little block in the front diff that does the shifting of the 4wd coller. The machine would pop in and out of 4wd in a pull, but the light would stay in 4wd.

Thats exactly what his is doing popping in and out and he "SAID" the light is going off with it... I'm not positive as I didn't ride it, but, I DID SEE the 4wd go OUT on it in a NOT SO PLEASANT place to go out... The weird thing is that it did it in a hard pull AND on PAVEMENT..
I told him about the "ACTUATOR"... I told him to take it p there to wade ball, the dealer, and see what he says about it... I will look into the "LITTLE BLOCK" also....
I just thought it strange to come out of 4wd in a hard pull and when a LIGHT pull also...
Now he has NOT ever adjusted the cable either and I am gonna try and do that for him one of these days that hes off work. Is there a way to check the ACTUATOR?? and is this "BOX" electronic also??
Mabye sounds like something for my DAD to look at!!

If it is the shifter block, its a small metal block, that is attached to the motor that activates the 4wd when the toggle is switched. Like said mine is a high miler, 17000+, and the block was worn to the point it couldn't slide the coller enough to engage the gears, especially in a hard pull. It was a rather simple fix, ordered new parts ($30) did the work myself, done deal. Be careful, itty-bitty parts, with a itty-bitty tapered pin that HAS to go the right way.

It is possible to pull the motor, (same motor as the KEBC actuator, different attachments) and look at the block. Is a easy check, I didn't lose any oil when I pulled mine.