Seems like I recall someone on this forum was in a similar situation.

I'm looking to buy 1st ATV. Looking pretty seriously at a 2up ATV. Want to get a trailer that will:

1) Hold a 2up + 1 up atv ( 2 place)
2) Fit in my condo's community garage space.
3) Since my truck doesn't fit in garage, I need to be able to either hand move the trailer + 2up atv into garage ( Is flat, w/ no incline ) or move trailer by hand, and then load atv onto trailer in garage space without trailer being attached to anything.

I've measured, and it appears, without confirmation by measuring atv's, that a 5' x 14' single axle trailer will fit in my space, and I think carry the 2 atv's ( 1 2up and 1 1up). This trailer however, as it loads from the back and carries both atv's end to end, wouldn't be able to be loaded without being attached to a truck. Also, I'm a little concerned about the length of this trailer, when in mts on forest roads with whoops. ( We have 2 whoops to get to hunt camp )

The 5' x 14' trailer is 1050 lbs if I remember correctly and 700 x2 is 860 lbs dry.

I would get the jack w/ wheel that attaches to the tongue of trailer. I'm just not sure, without having done this before, if one guy can move 1910 lbs of loaded trailer into a pretty tight area like this by hand.

I think my space would possibly allow for a 77" wide trailer, but no wider, and the 77" would be a pretty tight fit between the concrete columns in the garage.

Has anyone solved this type of storage riddle yet ?

Thanks in advance for any help. I need to figure out the storage before I can make the investment in the ATV.

I have a PJ 5x14 trailer. It pulls and backs up great. It is a single axle also. I also needed a trailer that I could move by hand because of where it is parked.

Do not try to load or unload a quad on a single axle trailer without it being hooked to the pull vehicle.

The front of the trailer will go up very high in the air and scare the devil out of you. Very dangerous. trust me I know.

My trailer weighs about a thousand pounds and has a gross weight of 3000. It has 3600 hundred # axle but with over 3000 #s you need trailer brakes. This trailer isn't easy to move by hand emty, but it was my only option. because most of the aluminum trailers I looked at were another grand and only had a 2000 gross weight.

My trailer has to go up a very slight hill of about 8 feet in lenght and it is all I can do to make it happen emty. Don't think I could do it be myself loaded, maybe on very level smooth ground.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: maxdun,

maxdun - That is the exact trailer I was looking at, a PJ 5' x 14'.

ALUMA Trailers makes a unit that would work for ya. Nice and lite.
http://www.alumaklm.com/sections/products/template_new....2&product_category=1

http://www.alumaklm.com/sections/products/template_new....3&product_category=1


Is the 77" the max overall width or is that the max width for the bed of the trailer? I would hope your garage is more than 77" wide. If not then it aint realy even a garage more like a storage shed.

I have a home made 6X10 trailer that I load 2 machines on and I have moved it around while loaded before. It is well over 1000 pounds on its own to. The person that built it is known for WAY over building things. I would think if you had a nice flat hard surface you should esaly be able to push it into the garage buy hand.

What you need is something in Aluminum and yes you can load them unattached to a vehicle if they are chocked and have jack stands under the rear. I do it all the time. I lower my tongue jack down, place the jack stands under the rear, and raise it up till they're under load. My trailer is a tandem axle 18' steel snowmobile trailer and it works fine.

bkrukow - garage door opening and parking space width are 101". a 77" trailer, I was told, is the deck w/ roughly 10" on each side for trailer tire / fender or 97" total.

My space is 101" wide and 220" long.

If that's the case, then the Aluma 2123 would work and you could load one atv up crosswise, use the other to tow it in the garage and close. Unhook and chock it with jack stands in place, load your second atv, lower if off the jack stands and push it into place. Of course, all is simplified if you have a wheel end on your tongue jack.

Rockbanger - Do you think an X2 (93") long will load sideways on that alumina? The Alumina 2123 bed was 79.5" wide ? Big difference in weight though 1000lbs for the PJ vs. 560lbs for the aluminum.


And I will only have one atv, maybe an X2 or Can am max. I wanted a 2 place trailer for extra space in summer, and a buddy will rent an atv for hunting next year I'll put on the trailer.

Edited to add : Just saw a price for that aluminum trailer that one could the atv budget

Are aluminum trailers typically more expensive than steel ?

JD 500,
Here is a pic of my X2 loaded crossways on my fastline trailer. The dealer had ordered this one at 98" wide overall which is what I was wanting as I pull it behind the 5th wheel at times. You can see it takes up all the room across the front. With the brush guard on the front, it takes up the whole width of the trailer. Normally if I'm hauling 2, I'll load the standard quad crossways on the front and the X2 lengthways behind. Just seems to balance out a lot better than having the heavy one clear at the front. For reference Heres a shot with 2 quads and a dirt bike on the trailer.
If you could find a T-load style trailer that was 66" between the fenders with the front extender out to the width of the fenders (approximately 84" overall) by 12 long that would let you load a standard quad crossways at front and put the 2up lengthways as I suggested and not be a lot wider than pickup for tracking and easier pulling. At any rate, even with a crazy wheel jack and very good concrete, I don't thing your going to move that very far by hand with a quad on the trailer. Maybe the trailer alone and then park the quad in front????

quote:

"Yes you can load them unattached to a vehicle if they are chocked and have jack stands under the rear. I do it all the time. I lower my tongue jack down, place the jack stands under the rear, and raise it up till they're under load."

I do the same. I have a steel 5x14. Reason for this narrow size was to track better behind my Ranger PU, so I could see past it in the mirrors. Before this trailer I had a 5x8 enclosed. I was able to back it into the storage garage (had a middle spot with an alley way between spaces on other side so I had room). Then push it loaded where need be in the space to get the boat in. Just the weight of the trailer and ATV inside, on a concrete slab, was somewhat of a chore to maneuver.

Here's a thought for getting a trailer into your spot. Instead of pushing it backwards. Pull it empty by hand into your spot. Use the method in the quote above, and load your ATV(s) on it, & lock it up.

Yes aluminum is expensive! However the lack of maintenance (painting) and the weight savings would be nice. I removed all the decking and repainted my frame when I got it two years ago and it's due again. Something about steel and rusting that kind makes the paint come off!

quote:

Originally posted by Rockbanger "Rideaholic":
... Something about steel and rusting that kind makes the paint come off!

The brand new PJ I looked at had a spot @ 6" in diameter that was rusty w/ paint gone (On a brand new trailer !!).

Thanks for the help, as usual you guys that have been there and done that have the answers.

Clearly, trailers are not all the same, so I just need to keep looking for one that will fit.

Real good to hear though, that you are successful loading an unhooked trailer as it sounds like the way to go. (With jackstands + wheel chocks). I had considered the possibility of rigging some kind of ball hitch I could either bolt to ground or wall, to hook trailer to , and then load/unload. Jackstands however, sound a hell of a lot easier.

Unfortunately as a newbie to ATV's and Trailers, I feel I need to work these things out ahead of time so I'm not at the mercy of the salesman, get home and have an issue with my purchase.

Thank you for your help !

Sure am glad I don't have constraints like you have. Got the RV pad next to the garage behind the fence that's 13'wide by 40' deep so almost any size will fit.

quote:

Originally posted by Rockbanger "Rideaholic":
Sure am glad I don't have constraints like you have... .

No Doubt. It's a pain in the you know what.
Frankly, I'm amazed the Homeowners assoc. cleared me parking the thing !!

Thanks for the help Rockbanger ! Can't wait to meet you guys for a ride after I get this all worked out !

Rockbanger good tip on putting the jack stands under the rear of the trailer. I didn't think of it. I can see it would work .

I recently ordered one of these Alumina tralers. Its one of there sled trailers but its under 2k, the one in the picture has an optional salt shield.

You can upgrade to 13 or 15 inch wheels and tires if you want, I went with the 13" aluminum stars with matching spare and the salt shield on mine.


2 things I like about the sled trailers, its 102 wide like the others are but its all deck space, You also save some wind sheer on the quads plastics by loading them facing forward rather then side ways. The sled tralers also have ties down tracks with I bolt that mount into the track at what ever spacing that you need them to be based on the length of the quads.

I wish I could say I was smart enough to do that to begin with. Nope, I thought I had enough tongue weight, but with me on my 400 Xplorer, the front end went up and then down as I went far enough forward on the trailer. Since then, if me and the boys have a long trip planned, we do load all three ATVs unattached to the truck and then all we have to do the next morning is open the gate and hook up and we're off. Luckily with my trailer being so long with a lot of rear overhang, the up wasn't that high but it was exciting just the same!

CC1999 - Unfortunately my space and garage door are 101" wide.

member of another forum reccomended attaching these to the rear of the trailer (like the jack stand idea). A member of another forum also had the suggestion of bolting tounge jacks to the back end ( The kind you can remove the jack leg (And no wheels) I might like that idea better as the jacks I think are rated 2000-3000 lbs vs the 1000 lb stabilizer.

Anything would work. Obviously any top wind trailer jack like these would do the trick and if you do it all the time it would be a wise investment.

I have a 6 X 12 Haulmark enclosed single axle trailer with a ramp door. It comes with what they call "stabilizer jacks" welded to the frame on the back corners. You might find some info on those on a trailer manufactures site. I just don't have pics of them. They work great.